Chicken Little and all things wine

In light of the recently announced buyout of Mondavi by Constellation, there has been a rash of articles announcing the 'the sky is falling' on the last bastion of hope and innocence that this country has left: the family winery. Here are a few:

Franciscan Estates has been a part of the company that could soon own Mondavi

Chalone Wine Group board accepts buyout offer

Mergers reshaping wine trade

and so on and so on. The one that takes the cake comes from the good old 'Modbee' of Modesto, California entitled Favorite little wine may be from a mega-winery. Why is it that people are just now starting to realize the 'corporate' presence in the wine world? I find it amazing that this is 'news' to so many people. It seems that every other day one bank is taking over another or Cell Company 'A' is taking over the world.

Why would it be any different in wine? Could it be the romanticism afforded the industry? The vision of the humble farmer tending his vines, in tune and in touch with every minute detail of the vineyards from which the wines will emerge. The restraint shown to not use chemical fertilizers to better the yield. The green harvesting of whole clusters, dropping perfectly good grapes on the ground, to concentrate the vine's energy into just a few bunches of grapes. Maybe so. And for those of you out there that still hold these images to heart, worry not. This idyllic vision still exists, it just sure as hell doesn't exist at Mondavi, Chalone, Brown-Forman, and many other uber-corporations. And don't think that our friends across the pond are above it, because they aren't.

My advice would be to do some research and support the smaller houses. It is understandable that one might want to go public, have some really cool tag on Wall Street (RMBS) and watch the cash roll in but there are things more important.

For the record, let's take a look at what some of the corporations have in their portfolios:

"In addition to Ravenswood and the pending Robert Mondavi purchase, Constellation's labels include (deep breath):

Almaden, Inglenook, Vendange, Nathanson Creek, Talus, Turner Road Vintners, Covey Run, Ste. Chapelle, La Terre, Coastal Vintners, Alice White, Manischewitz, Cook's, Mondoro, Taylor California Cellars, Cribari, Wild Irish Rose, Cisco, Paul Masson, Arbor Mist, Widmer, Estate Cellars, Heritage, Dunnewood, Farallon, Belaire Creek, Blackstone, Black Box, Hardys, Banrock Station, Nobilo, Franciscan Oakville Estate, Estancia, Mount Veeder, Quintessa and Simi."

When I think quality some of the first names that come to mind are Vendage, Alica White, Manichewitz, Cook's, Wild Irish Rose, Cisco (known locally as 'Liquid Crack'. If you've got nothing to do for a couple of days, grab a couple bottles of 'Passion Fruit'. Good Times.), and Arbor Mist. With 'labels' like this, do you honestly think that Constellation is concerned with quality control?

"In addition to the labels with Gallo in the name, the portfolio includes:

Anapamu, Bridlewood, Frei Brothers, Indigo Hills, Louis M. Martini, Marcelina, Mirassou, Napa Valley Vineyards, Rancho Zabaco, MacMurray Ranch, Turning Leaf, Bella Sera, Black Swan, Da Vinci, Ecco Domani, Red Bicyclette, Redwood Creek, Gossamer Bay, Livingston Cellars, Carlo Rossi, Peter Vella, Wild Vines, Burlwood, Copperidge, Liberty Creek, William Wycliff, Tott's, Ballatore Spumante, André, Thunderbird and Night Train Express."

Frei Bros., Turning Leaf, Bella Sera (it's going to be a beautiful night, or as they say in Italy, a 'bella sera')Ecco Domani, Livingston Cellars, Tott's and André. Wow! Two amazingly bad sparkling wines in the same book. And should they really admit that they own Thunderbird and Night Train? Would you?

"The Wine Group is another big player with San Joaquin Valley roots, and it makes Franzia boxed wine, Concannon, Glen Ellen, Corbett Canyon, MG Vallejo, Foxhorn, Mogen David, Austin Vale, Vista Point, Costa Vera, Altamonte and Morassutti.

Franzia boxed (thanks for the clarification), Glen Ellen, Corbett Canyon (canyon, canyon, canyon) and Foxhorn. Unbelievable.

And these companies are making money! If I went to the bank and told them I was going to start a retail store focusing on wines like these, I would get laughed out the door. Just imagine the possibilities if the same amount of energy afforded to pedalling this crap was put into real wine making!