Friday night in Savannah

In a previous life, I served more than a few years in the restaurant industry. It is for this reason that I am now in the retail end of things. But once in a while, I dust off the monkey suit and do my thing in private residences. Friday was one such occasion.

Dinner for 20. Sounds simple enough. The hostess gives me free reign on selecting the wines (given the budget). One of my former partners-in-crime at Café Metropole, John Kitt was lined up to sling the hash so I had an inside track on the menu. Here's how it went down.

Reception: The hostess first wanted to have a Champagne for arriving guests. Right on, except there isn't a whole lot of Champagne for those on a budget, especially a budget for 20. My recommendation for the 'Champagne' proper was Montaudon. This is a grower-producer house that makes a very nice wine and dirt cheap by Champagne standards. Usually around $30 for a 750, and right at half that for the 375ml. So what about an alternative? What I suggested and served was this:

François Montand 'Blanc de Blancs' Brut NV

While this wine is sparkling, it is no Champagne. This comes from Crançot, more or less in the Jura region of France. As the name implies it is made entirely from white grapes. Usually (at least in regards to Champagne) this would mean 100% Chardonnay. In fact, this wine is made from 100% Ugni Blanc. I'll admit that the name doesn't roll off the tongue all that well but this wine is solid. At the restaurant previously mentioned, I poured this by the glass and had great success with it. For a 'daily drinker', you would be hard pressed to find a better sparkling wine. Usually retails for $13-$14.

All the usual 'How you doing?' and 'Good to see you' and blah, blah blah. An hour later, everybody gets to table and it's time to get down.

First course: Tuna Tartare and Blue Crab with Papaya served with Fresh Cucumber, Watercress and a Toasted Sesame Seed Vinaigrette.

Selected Wine: Fred Loimer 'Lois' Grüner Veltliner 2003

The idea throughout the meal was to bring wines that might not be 'expected'. An Austrain white is a far cry from the Chardonnay most were expecting. I have a soft spot in my heart for wines like this. They are pure, clean, and incredibly versatile. The 'Lois' commands a little bit of attention because of its packaging. Very clean lines on the label and a clear bottle that seem to magnify what is in it. The wine drinks exactly how it looks - Clean and Green. It paired with the Tuna perfectly and I had people asking what this stuff was. I also had a few comments on the closure. The .03 vintage was the first to carry a Stelvin (screw cap) closure. Of course, some people immediately questioned the 'value' of a wine as such, so I had explain. While I am not the biggest fan of screw caps, for a wine such as this, it makes absolute sense. It is meant to be consumed in the first year or two of life and economically speaking, why put the money in a synthetic or natural cork? General consensus: It's a hit. Usually retails for around $14.

Second course: Grilled Beef Tenderloin and Gorgonzola Cream sauce with Carmelized Onion, Pears, and Parsnips in a Rosemary Vinaigrette on a bed of Fresh Arugula.

Selected wine: Château Routas 'Agrippa' Coteaux Varois 2001

I have been running with the wines from Routas for some time now. They are one of the few houses I have found that produces incredibly good wines at unbelievably low prices. Across the board, if it says Routas, buy it. I had sold the 2000 vintage like gangbusters, and had hoped to serve it at this dinner. The day before the event, a case of the 2001 arrived. I was a bit worried, not having had time to sit with the wine, but it performed true to form, albeit a little quicker in progression. This wine is 50%/50% Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah. There's a little blurb on the back label about an old (and now highly illegal) practice of the people of Bordeaux heading east to buy Syrah from the Rhône valley to bolster the Cab in weaker vintages. This wine is Routas' homage to this. Straight away, the wine screams Italian. The nose shows (for lack of a better term) a certain rusticity that I associate with wines from The Boot. The acid is blazing, another Italian characteristic and the fruit on the palate guarded. About 20-30 minutes in, the Cab starts to flesh out and the wine drinks like a Left Bank Bordeaux. Maybe the homage is a little too close to reality. After 45 minutes or so, the fruit works itself out, the tannins while present, become a little more integrated and the wine drinks like a Pomerol with a few years on it. Curious, because there is no Merlot in the mix, but that's how I read it. The pairing? Spot on. Retails around $15-$16.

Third Course: Chocolate Raspberry Torte Souflée with Chocolate Ganache, Raspberry Sauce, and Fresh Whipped Cream

Selected Wine: Gianni Vergnano 'Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Busco'Cascina Gilli Asti 2000

I had to kind of talk the hostess into this one, but it was worth it. I suggested that we throw something out there that (most) people would have never seen before. Score one for me. This is wine come from Piedmonte and would be the last thing you would expect from there. Barolo or Barberesco this is not. It is made from Malvasia Nera and is made as a dessert wine. The grapes are harvested, crushed, and fermentation is begun. Shortly thereafter, fermentation is arrested leaving a finished wine with relatively low alcohol and a fair amount of residual sugar. This one in particular comes in at 5.5%. The wine is bottled with a slight effervescence and closed with a 'normal' cork, no wire cage, et al. It's not as carbonated as a sparkling and not flat like a table wine. The wine tastes a bit 'grape-y', vibrant dark fruits, and the pairing with the chocolate was exactly what was called for. Not too much, not too little. One guest said, 'It tastes like a carbonated Port'. I would say that's pretty close. Maybe not for everyone or every meal, but if you find one, give it shot. Pretty cool wine. Usually retails for $14.

A good time was had by all, and hopefully I turned a few people on to some new stuff.

Just another day in paradise.