Breaking out the monkey suit, once again
***I apologize from the beginning if this reads long, just trying to give a little context.***
Saturday, January 15, 2005
Another private dinner prepared by Mr. John Kitt (aka Johnny Starpants) and served by yours truly. Semi-casual meal for eight in downtown Savannah.
The host decided to have his first dinner in his newly-renovated row house. Starpants submits various menu options. Host, not wanting to be 'too' adventurous selected the more 'normal' offerings. I don't necessarily balme him for this, it was the first dinner served in the house, the first dinner prepared in the kitchen, and the first time to actually see how things/people flow/react to their surroundings. Here's how it went down:
Reception:Proscuitto, Chevre, and Tapenade on Crackers
Selected Wine: Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño Rías Baixas 2003
'Cocktails at 7.00 pm.' This was the decree from the horse's mouth. The host had attended the last dinner John and I served and while he enjoyed it immensely, his main gripe was that cocktail 'hour' lasted almost two. And because of this, most people in attendance were half in the can by the time they got to table. This would not be the case tonight. At least that was the plan. The first guests arrived at five after. A respectable time. Coats were checked, drink orders were taken, and the guests were escorted to the second floor parlor. The plan was that most (if not all) people would actually have a 'cocktail' and as such, I had allotted two bottles of white for the reception/first-second course. As it turned out, 4 of the five women opted for the white straight away. And with good reason. This wine is drinking beautifully. Albariño is the grape from the region of Rías Baixas (pronounced 'Ree-us By-Chus') and produces some absolutely stunning wines. The were rather unknown for some time and incredibly cheap. Unfortunately, the major magazines (esp. Spectator) jumped all over the wine like it was some angel from heaven and as such the availability and pricing (due in no small part to the exchange rate) is nothing like it once was. Nevertheless, this wine is awesome. Many people like to compare Albariño to Viognier. I think this is silly. First off because I am an absolute freak for Viognier, especially from Condrieu. (I have found one from Provence that is a great value but will save that for another post). Secondly, it doesn't taste anything like a Viognier should. To be sure, there are hints of similar aromatics - peach, apricot, honey, etc.. but there are aspects of the Albariño grape that taste like other grapes as well. Depending on the producer, vintage, temperature, and time in glass this wine can have components of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, (Alsatian)Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and yes Viognier. Again, these elements are often fleeting or morphing, so at no one time does it smell/taste like any one 'more recognizable' grape. A few of the guests were a bit late to arrive so cocktails lasted a little longer than anticipated. Retail: +/- $21. Everyone was at table by 8:05.
First Course: Celery and Fennel Chowder with Fresh Oysters, Smoked Bacon, and a Tarragon Sabayon
Selected Wine: Zenato Lugana 'San Benedetto' 2003
As previously stated, I had not actually planned on serving this wine with this dish. But given consumption over cocktails, it would not have made sense to change wines mid-course. The Zenato is made from the Trebbiano grape. Admittedly, I am not the world's biggest fan of this grape. I'm not sure if it is locale or winemaker's influence but more often than not, the wines from this grape come across rather flabby, somewhat vicous on the palate and leave (for lack of a better term) and oily mouthfeel. I mean that in the way the wine seems to coat the inside of your mouth. The Zenato,not so much. The .03 vintage was, of course warmer than most and as such effected the wines throughout Europe. This wine did not go unscathed. The acid/fruit ratio is far less than in previous vintages but Zenato managed to make a wine that was more or less on point. Paired with the chowder and its cream base, along with the bacon, oysters (effectively poached before serving), and the thick creaminess of the sabayon, the 'fuller' style of this vintage melded quite well. Retail +/- $16.50
Second Course: A salad of hearts of Romaine and Ruby Red Grapefruit served with a Roquefort Cream and a Pomegranate Vinaigrette.
Selected Wine: N/A
The Zenato was more or less pulling double-duty. The host didn't want to turn dinner into a 'drunk-fest' and he didn't want a different wine for each course. Fine with me. The salad was quite interesting. I should offer a caveat: I don't like 'architectural' food. To clarify, I have little patience for 'Towers of this' or a 'Pyramid of that' and so on. That is not to say I want Chris Farley dumping my grub on a tray, hairnet, ladle, and all, but I don't like 'over produced' either. Sure the 'eye-candy' will bring the oohs and ahs, but after that, what else? It also tends to 'intimidate' people because they seem to feel that in eating the dish (that's the whole point, right?) they are dismantling it in a way. This salad not so much. THe Roquefort cream was spread on the dish as a base/adhesive. Starpants made a puff pasty shell that sat atop the cream. The romaine (already dressed) was stood on end in the pasty. Slices of grapefruit around the dish with additional vinaigrette in between. Looks: 8 out of 10. Stability en route to table:8.5 out of 10. Wow factor: 12 out 10.
Course 3: Skillet Seared Lamb Loin with Saffron Risotto and a Garlic-Rosemary Reduction.
Selected Wine: Château Mas Neuf 'Compostelle' Costières de Nîmes 2001
The dish was awesome. Lamb seared to a perfect medium rare. The risotto set atop a bed of mustard greens, served as the centerpiece of the plate. The color interplay was the business. And the wine went aces. Mas Neuf is situated in the Costières de Nîmes which lies southwest of Avignon about 15 miles. The grapes grown are very similar to those grown in the Southern Rhône and while the wines taste somewhat similar, there is definitely something 'unique' about them. Mas Neuf make two wines. The entry level is titled simply 'Château Mas Neuf'. The flagship is carries the moniker 'Compostelle'. Of course, it is not at all uncommon for a house to have a 'primary' label and a 'second' label. This is the same thing, albeit in reverse. The wine is mostly Syrah, with Mourvèdre coming up next and Grenache rounding out the blend. It drinks beautifully. Straight away, the wine drinks quite well, although a little tight. Given about 20-25 minutes in glass, the aromatics really begin to open up. Tobacco, dark fruits, slight brett, are shown on the nose and mirrored on the palate. A great wine and it has the legs to go the distance, at least medium term. I would think this wine capable of aging easily another 4-5 years. And for the money, this wine looks all the more attractive. Retail +/- $25.
Fourth Course: Poached Pear with Crispy Phyllo Dough and Milk Chocolate Custard.
Selected Wine: N/A
Another 'wow factor' dish. The custard went on the plate first. The phyllo dough was baked in a cup shape and placed inverted over the custard, keeping it out of view. After carmelizing sugar on the top of the pear, it was set atop the phyllo. The dish was finished with a sauce of pastis, diced pear, and sugar.
The crowd went nuts.
Again, apologies for the long winded description. I'm sure there will be another dinner soon. I'll let you know how it goes.
Saturday, January 15, 2005
Another private dinner prepared by Mr. John Kitt (aka Johnny Starpants) and served by yours truly. Semi-casual meal for eight in downtown Savannah.
The host decided to have his first dinner in his newly-renovated row house. Starpants submits various menu options. Host, not wanting to be 'too' adventurous selected the more 'normal' offerings. I don't necessarily balme him for this, it was the first dinner served in the house, the first dinner prepared in the kitchen, and the first time to actually see how things/people flow/react to their surroundings. Here's how it went down:
Reception:Proscuitto, Chevre, and Tapenade on Crackers
Selected Wine: Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño Rías Baixas 2003
'Cocktails at 7.00 pm.' This was the decree from the horse's mouth. The host had attended the last dinner John and I served and while he enjoyed it immensely, his main gripe was that cocktail 'hour' lasted almost two. And because of this, most people in attendance were half in the can by the time they got to table. This would not be the case tonight. At least that was the plan. The first guests arrived at five after. A respectable time. Coats were checked, drink orders were taken, and the guests were escorted to the second floor parlor. The plan was that most (if not all) people would actually have a 'cocktail' and as such, I had allotted two bottles of white for the reception/first-second course. As it turned out, 4 of the five women opted for the white straight away. And with good reason. This wine is drinking beautifully. Albariño is the grape from the region of Rías Baixas (pronounced 'Ree-us By-Chus') and produces some absolutely stunning wines. The were rather unknown for some time and incredibly cheap. Unfortunately, the major magazines (esp. Spectator) jumped all over the wine like it was some angel from heaven and as such the availability and pricing (due in no small part to the exchange rate) is nothing like it once was. Nevertheless, this wine is awesome. Many people like to compare Albariño to Viognier. I think this is silly. First off because I am an absolute freak for Viognier, especially from Condrieu. (I have found one from Provence that is a great value but will save that for another post). Secondly, it doesn't taste anything like a Viognier should. To be sure, there are hints of similar aromatics - peach, apricot, honey, etc.. but there are aspects of the Albariño grape that taste like other grapes as well. Depending on the producer, vintage, temperature, and time in glass this wine can have components of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, (Alsatian)Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and yes Viognier. Again, these elements are often fleeting or morphing, so at no one time does it smell/taste like any one 'more recognizable' grape. A few of the guests were a bit late to arrive so cocktails lasted a little longer than anticipated. Retail: +/- $21. Everyone was at table by 8:05.
First Course: Celery and Fennel Chowder with Fresh Oysters, Smoked Bacon, and a Tarragon Sabayon
Selected Wine: Zenato Lugana 'San Benedetto' 2003
As previously stated, I had not actually planned on serving this wine with this dish. But given consumption over cocktails, it would not have made sense to change wines mid-course. The Zenato is made from the Trebbiano grape. Admittedly, I am not the world's biggest fan of this grape. I'm not sure if it is locale or winemaker's influence but more often than not, the wines from this grape come across rather flabby, somewhat vicous on the palate and leave (for lack of a better term) and oily mouthfeel. I mean that in the way the wine seems to coat the inside of your mouth. The Zenato,not so much. The .03 vintage was, of course warmer than most and as such effected the wines throughout Europe. This wine did not go unscathed. The acid/fruit ratio is far less than in previous vintages but Zenato managed to make a wine that was more or less on point. Paired with the chowder and its cream base, along with the bacon, oysters (effectively poached before serving), and the thick creaminess of the sabayon, the 'fuller' style of this vintage melded quite well. Retail +/- $16.50
Second Course: A salad of hearts of Romaine and Ruby Red Grapefruit served with a Roquefort Cream and a Pomegranate Vinaigrette.
Selected Wine: N/A
The Zenato was more or less pulling double-duty. The host didn't want to turn dinner into a 'drunk-fest' and he didn't want a different wine for each course. Fine with me. The salad was quite interesting. I should offer a caveat: I don't like 'architectural' food. To clarify, I have little patience for 'Towers of this' or a 'Pyramid of that' and so on. That is not to say I want Chris Farley dumping my grub on a tray, hairnet, ladle, and all, but I don't like 'over produced' either. Sure the 'eye-candy' will bring the oohs and ahs, but after that, what else? It also tends to 'intimidate' people because they seem to feel that in eating the dish (that's the whole point, right?) they are dismantling it in a way. This salad not so much. THe Roquefort cream was spread on the dish as a base/adhesive. Starpants made a puff pasty shell that sat atop the cream. The romaine (already dressed) was stood on end in the pasty. Slices of grapefruit around the dish with additional vinaigrette in between. Looks: 8 out of 10. Stability en route to table:8.5 out of 10. Wow factor: 12 out 10.
Course 3: Skillet Seared Lamb Loin with Saffron Risotto and a Garlic-Rosemary Reduction.
Selected Wine: Château Mas Neuf 'Compostelle' Costières de Nîmes 2001
The dish was awesome. Lamb seared to a perfect medium rare. The risotto set atop a bed of mustard greens, served as the centerpiece of the plate. The color interplay was the business. And the wine went aces. Mas Neuf is situated in the Costières de Nîmes which lies southwest of Avignon about 15 miles. The grapes grown are very similar to those grown in the Southern Rhône and while the wines taste somewhat similar, there is definitely something 'unique' about them. Mas Neuf make two wines. The entry level is titled simply 'Château Mas Neuf'. The flagship is carries the moniker 'Compostelle'. Of course, it is not at all uncommon for a house to have a 'primary' label and a 'second' label. This is the same thing, albeit in reverse. The wine is mostly Syrah, with Mourvèdre coming up next and Grenache rounding out the blend. It drinks beautifully. Straight away, the wine drinks quite well, although a little tight. Given about 20-25 minutes in glass, the aromatics really begin to open up. Tobacco, dark fruits, slight brett, are shown on the nose and mirrored on the palate. A great wine and it has the legs to go the distance, at least medium term. I would think this wine capable of aging easily another 4-5 years. And for the money, this wine looks all the more attractive. Retail +/- $25.
Fourth Course: Poached Pear with Crispy Phyllo Dough and Milk Chocolate Custard.
Selected Wine: N/A
Another 'wow factor' dish. The custard went on the plate first. The phyllo dough was baked in a cup shape and placed inverted over the custard, keeping it out of view. After carmelizing sugar on the top of the pear, it was set atop the phyllo. The dish was finished with a sauce of pastis, diced pear, and sugar.
The crowd went nuts.
Again, apologies for the long winded description. I'm sure there will be another dinner soon. I'll let you know how it goes.
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