Thursday, February 17, 2005

Flavor Of The Month(s)?

Let me make one thing clear: I have not seen the movie 'Sideways'

With that said, if current trends keep up, I may go to my grave that way. This is not because of some aversion to Hollywood, although I have many. I've got nothing personal against the cast, Paul Giamatti is brilliant. Ironically, what may prevent me from losing a couple hours of my life that I will never get back is simply a matter of attitude. An attitude that has apparently been embraced by the industry I love and in which I am trying to make a living. I know that I am jaded but allow me to explain.

Since the release of this film, I would venture that no more than 6 waking hours have passed without an email, phone call, or patron telling me that I have to see this film. What's more, since the movie has gained in popularity (and more so after it was nominated) I have read almost daily about some wine shop somewhere who can't keep Pinot Noir in stock, a shop that has put together a mixed case of wines featured in the film, or some enterprising company who guides 'Sideways' tours. While some of this might be expected, I feel that is has long since gotten out of hand.

Let me offer an analogy. I live in Savannah, Georgia. A while back a man named John Berendt wrote a book about some goings-on here. The book sold about 500 billion copies. It was then made into a movie and raked in more cash. As a result of both, thousands of people come to this little piece of paradise. Some, without a doubt, can get their noses out of 'The Book' long enough to truly appreciate the beauty that is Savannah. Others, not so much. One could argue that without 'The Book' and 'The Movie' many people would never have known about this town. I would agree and counter that shortly after getting done with one of the 10 or so tours, many of the 'guests' proceed to tell us locals how great wherever the hell they came from is and what Savannah 'needs to do'. With all due respect, I don't give a shit how they do it in Boulder, or New York, or San Francisco.

What's the point? The same argument could be made of 'Sideways'. 'This movie is bringing people around to Pinot', one says....'At least it's getting them off Merlot', chimes another....'It's great for Santa Barbara',...and blah, blah, blah. Here's the crux of the matter. What I take issue with is how one grape is heralded while another is somehow marginalized. In the line that is most often repeated to me , one character proclaims 'I ain't drinking no fucking Merlot.' I would agree but for my own reasons. Primarily, because the vast majority of it from California is crap. But that's another story.

The idea of promoting (read 'shoving it down the consumers' throat) one particular grape over another is short-sighted and silly. The reason some people are getting off the Merlot train (other than the one previously stated) is that they have come to realize that there is no one ideal wine. Better said, there is a time and a place for Merlot, just as there is with Pinot Noir and the myriad other grapes grown throughout the world. To re-iterate the analogy above, there's a reason Boston is different from Los Angeles and Venice and Madrid. This doesn't make Boston better (although they may disagree), just different. In an attempt to make a quick buck, wineries, retailers and distributors alike are setting themselves up to be a momentary presence in someone's life, ultimately carrying the same cultural significance as the pet rock. 'You know, that guy made a million dollars' (Credit to Mike Judge and Office Space).

Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe this movie and the wines featured in it will bring millions into the fold and wine will be present at every meal on every table across this country. For some reason, I doubt it. Of course, most of the Pinots from California that I have had recently are more akin to Syrah than anything remotely resembling their French counterparts. And isn't Syrah supposed to be the next big thing? How convenient.

And for the last time (I wish), yes they do make Pinot Noir in France. And when you reach the end of your rope with 'the fucking Merlot' (or for that matter, the Pinot Syrah), give me a call or drop me an email. There is a whole world in about 23,000 acres known as Burgundy.

'Come on in boys, the water is fine.' (Free bottle of Passetoutgrains for whoever can correctly identify the source of that quote. Just kidding the BATF and the DOR would have me drawn and quartered.)

2 Comments:

Tom said...

Source of Quote (I think)

"O Brother Where Art Thou"

7:16 PM  
Christian said...

Very Nice!!!

I'll throw in another 5 to make it an even 6 pack for the one who can tell me what a Passetoutgrain is. (Hint: The answer is somewhere in the archives. If you've been reading, you already know)

8:09 PM  

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