Thursday, April 28, 2005

Chicken Wings and Rice

That was the menu last night while the F.A. was getting her 'Alias' fix. Not really wanting to contemplate the origins of the universe, I grabbed a bottle and started out the door.

Trénel Fils 'Saint-Amour' 2002


It has been fasionable for some time to simply discount the wines of Beaujolais straight-away as 'bubble gum and bananas in a bottle'. This is a fair description of many of the wines that come from there but it is in no way indicative of the entire region. Unfortunately, the machine that is Georges DeBoeuf is a double-edged sword of sorts. While he and his company have done wonders to attract attention to this place south of Burgundy, the majority of people (at least in this neck of the woods) think 'Nouveau' and then think 'No Way'. This is a shame.

For starters, understand that Beaujolais is a region like Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rioja, etc... Secondly, the grape around here is Gamay. Curiously, the appellation also permits some white grapes to be grown and blended like Chardonnay and Aligoté. And third, when in the hands of someone who cares, Gamay can reach heights that most people would not believe. I'm not talking about Latriciéres-Chambertin but certainly not the plonk that many people assume it to be.

Saint-Amour is one of ten 'crus' in the Beaujolais and while being the furthest north, it is the second smallest. The soil here has a higher concentration of limestone (that which is more closely associated with it northern neighbor - the Mâconnais), and produces a wine that is more 'Burgundian' than most. It has been my experience that the best wines of the Beaujolais come from Saint-Amour, Moulin-à-Vent, and Morgon, but there are fine wines being made throughout.

Opening the Trénel, straight away the most impressive thing about the nose was the concentration. Quizing the F.A., she thought it to be Italian and then thought better and said Burgundy. The first time I tasted this wine it was served blind. I thought it was Pinot straight-away. As the wine progressed in the glass, it maintained a strong Pinot style while showing the 'grapey' flavor that is the hallmark of most lesser Gamays. Color was considerably darker than I had expected, although not as dark as some that I have had from the southern part of Beaujolais. Tannins were very much present but very well integrated, giveng the wine more structure without being overbearing.

All in all, an excellent bottle of wine. Price is +/- $20, and while that may be more expensive than most people would expect to pay for a Beaujolais, this wine is a different animal altogether. Definitely worth the money and I would be curious to wee this wine in 4-5 years. I suspect it will be even better.

1 Comments:

william said...

Must admit that Métras' Fleurie is one of my favorite wines year in year out. Long live great beaujolais.
Caveman

11:49 PM  

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