The science of magic or the magic of science?

I suppose that's a matter of who you talk to and who you believe. It seems pretty clear which camp this guy is in.

Bid to improve wine smell

Uncontent to leave well-enough alone...

"Hentie Swiegers, a molecular biologist at Adelaide's Australian Wine Research Institute, is examining whether selecting the right type of yeast can allow wine makers to create the best aroma for consumer tastes."

At the risk of sounding even more jaded than I am, this is incredible. Dr. Sweigers is researching yeast not in an effort to find out which ones work best with various fruit, which ones create moderate alcohol levels, or which ones create good (or very good) finished wines. No, this is all about 'consumer tastes'. I have said for a long time (and this is not a blanket statement about the entire industry) but it seems more and more that Australia asks the question 'What kind of wine do you want' and then makes that wine.
Of course, the whole thing is predicated on people actually 'knowing' what they want. I'm not so sure that is always the case.

But don't think the good doctor has bad intentions for his research:

"The aim is not necessarily to pump up the aromas every time," Dr Swiegers said."

Yeah, right. If this helps you sleep well at night, then good for you. Do you honestly think that armed with the ability to 'create' an aromatic profile that is almost sure to be a hit with the average consumer, wineries might not use it?!? I doubt it. But it gets better:

"It's about giving winemakers the knowledge to be able to create the aromas that the market responds to and usually associates with a wine style."

I'm not sure I even understand what that statement means. I get the first part. And at the risk of giving out free advice, here's my two cents. If the sales of Yellowtail start to lag a bit more than your comfortable with, find a yeast that will impart the pleasing aroma of McDonald's french fries. Better yet, why not throw a dozen of the 'Super-sized' version in the vat. The shit will sell like hotcakes.

Further proof of what business the Aussies are in. The business of making money, absolutely. The business of making wine, not so much.