France (collectively) jumping the shark?

From decanter.com:

French national vin de pays revived

Surprise, Surprise....I think this is a horrible idea.

"The concept of a national vin de pays - one that will allow blending between different regions and which may be called Vin de Pays de France or Cepage de France - is anathema to many growers."

From the looks of it, more than a few people in France are dangling a toe or two over the edge fully prepared to try and compete with the Super-Duper Agri-Corps of Australia. Assuming that winemakers in France honestly feel this is the answer to their prayers (or the cure for their ailments) is simply sad.

"Other major figures have been behind the idea from the beginning. Jean-Marie Chadronnier of Dourthe said, 'What is important is that things are kept simple. We should be able to say, This is a merlot from France. Period. We shouldn't have to explain the wine to the consumer."

I beg to differ. Unlike other art forms, wine (and yes, it is an art) cannot be 'simplified' without serious implications. By its very nature, wine is (or at least should be) complex. With music or painting or sculpture, it is possible to 'de-construct' and in doing so, create something new and (arguably) more complex. With wine, not so much.

Kessler said that the survival of France depends on selling wine in the supermarkets. While 30% of wine is regionally labelled, the vast majority is branded. France has to take its share of that market - but at present it does not have the means.

With this logic, what would Mr. Kessler suggest to combat the market share that Kraft 'yellow cheese' currently enjoys?

My two cents: 'Branding' doesn't mean 'better'.