Or as the French might say 'ça c'est de la merde'. Seeing as I am a little late getting on this one, here's what some fellow bloggers had to say on the subject:
Vinography,
Huge Johnson,
Fermentations,
Fermentations #2...just to list a few. The article in question can be read in two forms. The first is from
Decanter and the second is from
The Observer International.
At the crux of the matter are the 'findings' of a study conducted by a couple of English economists. It is their conclusion the the concept of 'terroir' has little, if anything to do with how wines perform in marketplace via pricing, popularity, garnering ratings from certain critics and the like.
It is here that I would like to invite you, the reader to revisit the title of this post.
Economics can be pretty cool. Hell, for that matter economists can be pretty cool as well. I know I'm a bit biased but my brother's an economist and we get on pretty damn well. What I find very curious about this 'study' is something that my brother has repeated many a time (not verbatum): 'Economists can't predict the future, we simply look at the past and roughly predict human response based on previous actions'. It is in this light that I find it a bit odd that a couple of economists are now 'qualified' to pass judgement on something that many people hold to be true.
Let me say that those of us who actually believe in terroir might only be about 3 or 4 degrees off from the Hale-Bopp gang running around in black Nikes with their subway fare jingling in their pockets. I, for one don't think so, but it may be true.
From the Decanter article:
"The pair collected data on environmental conditions and winemaking techniques across the vineyards of the Haut-Médoc in 1990, including the first-growths Mouton-Rothschild, Latour, Lafite-Rothschild and Margaux.
The information was entered into a database in order to compare terroir characteristics with winemaking techniques for 100 vineyards in the region. The data was also compared with the prices certain vintages fetched on the wine market and the scores they received from tasters including Michael Broadbent and Robert Parker."
So this study lasted more or less fifteen years and according to this article, the study focused only on the 1990 vintage and how it performed in the market. To put that into a little perspective, when the 1855 Classification was commissioned to effectively 'rate' the wines of the Left Bank, not only were the wines tasted, but the sales/shipping receipts for the previous 100 (that's one hundred) years were taken into consideration as well. Suffice it to say, I find this study more than a little suspect.
To harken back to my brother's quote, to base this study on the market performance of the 1990 vintage over the following fifteen years is, at best, ridiculous. This is akin to looking at the success/fail rate of 'democracy' in the Middle East over the last 48 months. I understand that our (and not just American) collective culture has become one that looks about ten minutes into the future and remembers about thirty seconds in the past but I find the entire premise of this 'study' laughable. Admittedly, I have not read the entire paper, but nowhere in either article do they make note of the obvious rise in market share of California and Australia, by way of general popularity. I am reminded of an article in Money magazine or some such publication that stated the French were having their asses handed to them by Australia - sales wise. This is without question. What that article, and this paper as well fail to point out is that this is not necessarily a zero-sum game. Just because Kraft is selling a shit-ton of Velveeta, decreased sales of Camembert this does not equal. And given the lack of attention-span that most people have on any subject, unless it's American Idol, I think 15 years of study is a joke
From the Observer article:
"Wine-making has become so sophisticated that it can completely shade the effect of terroir, and vines can be grown in almost any place, as long as the weather permits, and the right combination of vines is made,' the pair state before concluding with the chilling observation: 'The French terroir legend obviously does not hold; at least in the Haut-Médoc region.'"
Please take a moment and re-read the above quote. I will try to break it down one by one. It is true that wine-making has become far more sophisticatedthan in years past. And I would agree that this level of sophistication could, or as they say
"can" completely shade the effect of terroir. One need look no further than Australia or California to find readily available evidence of this. But they don't stop there.
"...as long as the weather permits, and the right combination of vines..."
I'm not sure if this is ignorance or complete intellectual laziness but these two clowns are talking about some of the basic ingredients of the very 'terroir' that they claim does not exist or at the least, has no bearing on the final wine.And then the ringer:
'The French terroir legend obviously does not hold; at least in the Haut-Médoc region.'
I honestly don't know what to say to this. It seems to me that the only thing that is obvious is that these two jokers decided to go for the gold and make a completely outrageous statement in an attempt to garner a bit of attention for their 'hard work' (read: Headlines). This is not that far removed from the tactics of Michael Moore (Fahrenheit 9/11) and more recently Mr. Nossiter (Mondovino), one who I agree with, the other not so much. I suppose it's worked because here I am adding my .02 to the mix.
The simple reality is that while the French may have been the ones to have coined the phrase, they are far from the only party that subscribes to the concept of 'terroir'. Need proof? Why isn't Nebbiolo is being planted all over the damned place? Most Barolo producers command prices that others would kill for. Why? I'll give you two guesses and the first one doesn't count. Why aren't the Germans going ape-shit with Pinot Noir? They try, and once in a while they make something that is remotely related to the real deal but all in all, not so much. And speaking of the Germans, taste through a line-up of Rieslings from a single producer and a single vintage. If you can honestly chalk up the difference in the wines to simply 'mechanics' in the vat room, you're a damned fool. And if so, good luck. It only means more for me and the F.A.
I am working on a post to clarify my position on all things terroir (in case this was not enough) so stay tuned.