Earlier this morning I caught a bit of George Carlin on the boob tube. I have an earnest reverence for this man as he seems to be both a master of the obvious and incredibly insightful at the same time. Not trying to draw any comparisons only stating this because his cantor put me in a somewhat similar mind set.
Along the lines of the oxymoron-ic conundrums people ponder every day (How do you know when sour cream goes bad?, drive on parkway/park in drive way), I came across a similar question about wine. The subject of the 'Non-Vintage Champagne'.
Speaking with a friend earlier, she remarked about how whe didn't want a particular NV because it used to be a '90' and now it's only an '88'. Readers of this thing blog will know my immediate reaction but that is only the beginning. The gears started (and are still) spinning in my head and so I thought it might make good fodder.
For those unaware, Non-Vintage (aka N.V./NV) is a designation used most famously (but not exclusively) in the production of of Champagne. For the sake of this rant, I am speaking of the wines of the actual region of Champagne, but it doesn't really matter. I feel fairly confident in saying that for the vast majority of you reading this, the overwhelming majority of Champagne or other sparkling wine that has ever crossed your lips has been non-vintage. NV is, in a way, Champagne's way of having it's cake and eating it too. In short, it permits the folks in Champagne to use wine(s) from various vintages to create a consistent wine year in and year out. Logically speaking, it is a must, given how far north Champagne is and how difficult/unpredictable the weather can be. The idea being that when a 'vintage' is declared (i.e. there is a year on the bottle), the wine is/should be qualitatively better. While this is often true, it is by know means absolute.
What I find curious is three-fold:
1. Most people, if they are aware of a vintage, become nearly obsessed with buying only said year.
2. Most people, were they aware that the wine was a blend of multiple years, would think lesser of said wine.
So, in the event I have yet to convince you that points and ratings are a total exercise in mastubation, I submit the following. Most of you have probably had Veuve Clicquot, Perrier-Jouët, etc... While you may favor one over the other, I would think you (and me, and just about everybody else) to be hard pressed when declaring that one bottle you had was superior to another within the same house. This is not because your palate is not qualified to do so, it is by design.
The idea is not that far removed from the major fast food chains some people enjoy in this country. The Big Mac in Savannah better be the same Big Mac in San Fran as it is in Chicago.
I'm not suggesting that McDonald's and Lanson are at all similar but the point is the same: Consistency. And this is not an easy task. Keep in mind that there are most definitely different cuvées (blends) for different markets. This is done primarily through the dosage and if you want to know what that's all about, may happ I'll write about it. Suffice to say, Vueve in the U.K. is a decidely different wine than you would drink at a UK basketball game.
So back to the points. How can a wine, that is designed to be more or less the same year in and year out, garner (sometime drastic) different scores? The most obvious is that the winemaker was asleep at the wheel, or getting high on his own supply. This is nearly impossible. The amount of money in Champagne and the money it generates is astronomical. There are too many cooks in the kitchen to allow it to happen. Second, is the basic raw materials the winemaker had to work with. There is some leeway here, but (a la the money) steps have been taken to ensure that a Big Mac is a Big Mac. Third, time in bottle. Like many wines, Champagne will change as it ages. This change can be good or bad, rarley indifferent. There are a few others but I assume I have made my point.
Lastly, the one that makes my head explode: If you agree with only a little of the things I have put forth, why would a NV wine really ever need to be revisited? As it turns out, it really doesn't. Looking at Parker, he has reviewed 101 NV Champagnes, with less than a handfull being tasted more than once. And the span of the scores are from 85 to 95, with the mast majority in the 89-91 range. And those tasted twice or more, the scores don't fluxuate more that 3-4 points. The lesson, Parker likes the wines that he likes, more than likely they will be consistent and either way, your not Parker so who gives a shit?
The bigger problem lies in the myriad of jokers publishing ratings these days. That, coupled with the complete intellectual/critical laziness practiced by 99% of the wine stores in this country, makes a recipe for disaster. The
average retailer will keep looking for the highest score possible, regardless of who it is or what their qualifications may be. It's the viniferous equivalent of the old "I saw it on TV, so it must be true." Meanwhile, perfectly good Champagne collects dust until some monkey gets around to recognizing it.
Sorry for the rant, just stop worrying about points, damnit!!