Or maybe a better title would be 'Money gets what Money wants'. Either way I find this more than a little troubling.
Feds institute looser standard for vintage winesI'm sure the vast majority of people (wine drinkers and Non - alike) have no idea and probably no interest in the subtleties of various regulations that govern the wine industry or anything else for that matter. Consequently, those fine folks 'up on the hill' get away with whatever they want to.
"Currently, at least 95 percent of a vintage-dated wine must come from grapes harvested in the vintage year cited on the label. The new rules will lower this standard, so that at least 85 percent of a vintage-dated wine must be derived from vintage-year grapes."
That's right. No longer does the vintage matter. One of the base arguments for this whole thing was to put American wineries on 'equal footing' with their competitors, specifically Australia. I'm sure t goes without saying that I find this a less-than-desirable 'solution' to what those out west consider a 'problem' Recently, the EU made a similar move. Used to be that they had 'standards' concerning the processes by which wine was made - reverse osmosis, watering back, addition of oak chips as opposed to the far more expensive (and traditional) use of oak barrels. Well those things are long gone now. The argument used then??? 'We can't compete with the Americans and the Australians.' Well, it appears that everyone is getting in on this process of driving the bar as far into the ground as possible.
"Older wines can be made to taste younger and fresher," prominent Lodi, Calif.-based grower and vintner John Kautz advised regulators, "(and) younger wines can be blended to add some aged characteristics."
While the words that he uses 'make sense', that doesn't prevent this from being one of the dumbest things I've heard in a while.
What's the point of aging a wine in the first place, jack-ass?!?!I know that I'm sounding a bit like ol' Chicken Little and most people would say 'You'll never see the
reputable producers taking advantage of such a thing' blah, blah, blah. Well, I have my doubts. From what I've read, there is absolutely nothing to repvent them from doing so. And what exactly is a 'reputable' producer anyway. It wasn't all that long ago that Mondavi et al was the cream of the crop, so to speak.
Tom over at
Fermentation says that this 85/15 rule only applies to wines that carry the generic 'California' label, i.e. no winery that labels their wines winth an appellation will be allowed to use this practice. He may be right. But it is only recently that certain 'appellations' have been granted the right to enforce the idea that the fruit comes from the place on the label. Do a Google on the Napa Valley Vintners Association and their recent legal battles.
And given that there is so much grey area in the delineations of appellation, fruit source, why is that crazy that this 85/15 rule won't ultimately be applied to all wines. After all, the crux of this latest argument is to give 'equal footing'
One last thought. Suppose that at some point, Harlan does blend in 15% from a previous vintage(s). Is it reasonable to assume that this would be disclosed to a Parker, Laube, Tanzer, et al? And furthermore, if it were, would this then be disseminated to the masses via Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, etc...? I suspect the answer is 'Hell No!'.
And what would be the fallout if one of the aforementioned clowns were to proclaim, say 2007, the vintage of the century, only for it to become known that a certain percentage of the wine wasn't from said vintage.
Oh, forget about it. That would never happen.
And what about the growers.....?